This trident was a purchase from Ian Price of Lone Pine in 2009 at the GSBF convention in Anaheim.
Signature Yamafusa pot purchased for the tree four years ago. Needed all four years to get it into the pot.
This trident maple was purchased from Steve DaSilva in 2013. It was dug from his field.
This Japanese bag pot was purchased from Kora Daleger back from a recent trip to Japan. It has had many root cut backs to get it into this pot.
This elm has been written about here before. I will gloss over the past details and just show a few progression shots for clarity.
This was the stump as dug from the tree farm ( Steve DaSilva ) in Feb. of 2013. Over the next few years the branches were styled and given some shape. Fast growing meant cutting in of the wire many times and some scarring can be seen giving some character to the branches.
I decided that the tree was about as far as I could take it as it was. I would either have to layer the tree reserving the top portion as a good Moyogi tree and then work on the bottom and utilize that over a number of years. Or, turn it into a sort of Bunjin tree because of its long trunk with special branching near the top.
I thought the Bunjin style may be worth the effort so most of the branches on the lower half were removed.
I applied about 8 guy wires to the tree in an effort to pull down the branches to get the necessary effect of an older looking tree. The tree has its short comings as far as a bunjin styled tree. First the trunk is quite large. It is not easily seen in the photo but is nearly three inches across at the base. About half way up, the tree had been chopped for a direction change and some necessary taper in the trunk. What it did was build shoulders on the chop. This gives the impression of two cylinders on top of each other. While the top third shows much more taper due to the fact that I was able to control the growth in a container rather than in the ground.
A picture of the tree during its naked X-rated photo shoot!
This bark was removed from some places to get the necessary taper that would improve the overall look of the trunk.
This large lump will have to be worked on to smooth out the bump.
These old scars and the new ones as well will need some work to make them a part of the feeling of the tree.
Sunday morning Jan. 1st, 2017
I began by carving some interest into all the old stubs. Some were carved and some just smoothed.
I had three choices for Literati pots to choose from. The two shallow ones are from Japan and the other is a local potted.
There are no feet on the pot and it will sit directly on the wire.
I just cut a piece of screen to fill the entire bottom and allow the ties wires to do the holding in place of the screen.
After pruning and root pruning the tree was tied into it’s new pot.
For the guy wires I use a 24 gauge steel wire that is anodized black. I thread that thru 3/32 shrink tube for protection on the branch. It’s all very small and barely visible.
The guy wires are attached to small 1/4 inch brass screw eyes that I thread in along areas not readily seen from the front.
The final result. So far reception has been OK but still not Bunjin. People still feel the trunk is too big. When seen in person that feeling is not present.
While on a trip to Ed Clarks nursery in Lindsey I ran across this Kiyohime maple in a wooden box sitting at the end of a table of maples. I thought the leaves were exceptional and he told me that they take really well to cutting back constantly and with correct pruning like to make the small leaves with increased ramification.
I purchased this one and felt that the trunk lent itself well to a slanting type of style. I also liked the fact that eventhough it had pretty good taper, it was not so much built in the pine tree style trunk so prevelent in growing fields. It is very hard to make an acceptable spreading oak style tree when the trunk is grown so upright and tapered with branches set in the ascending 1,2,3 style.
The canopy was pruned back to what I expected would be the outline of an acceptable maple canopy. The internode length posed a problem since cutting back to the first bud still meant that there would be no inner foliage on the tree. This would mean that the foliage would start about another inch or so outside of this line. totally unacceptable for me.
I decided what I wanted to keep and cut everything off that was heavy or in an awkward place. Large pruning scars were sealed and covered tightly with chip grafting tape which provides a hot house and keeps the lips of the callus tight to the trunk. Ed swears by this stuff and I have seen the results and it works very well. Not cheap tape, about $12.00 a roll but will last forever. Just have to see what this year brings.
Yosemite is ablaze with the colors of Fall. My wife and I had the rare opportunity to see the colors of the Yosemite Valley during this colorful season.
A couple years ago I picked up several young pines from a grower in Lindsey, Ed Clark. Ed grows these pines with wire embedded in the trunk to add girth quickly and to add good movement. The technique is not for everyone and pine purists will say they look un-natural and man made. The truth is that as the years go by they look less and less man made and begin to take on a different look. I am OK with the look and will continue to work with these pines to see how I might develop them.
The pines at the nursery are fairly bushy due to letting the growth run and pruning only once a year. The trunks have been wrapped with wire and the wire is allowed to cut in producing lots of scar tissue and bulges and texture. A lot of the trunks at this age look a lot like the Michelin Man.
The tops tend to look pretty bushy and one can be assured that a yuears growth will really turn it into a bowling ball of green.
One years growth at my place.
I had purchased about 10 of the pines. Cursory cuts have been made and the foliage was allowed to grow all season.
After purchasing the material the first cuts are made. Wire is applied to set the shape and then it is allowed to grow and bud.
Today the pine looks like this one year later.
The group look like this.
This second group are one year further along in training.
Now that’s the method for growing and training pines being specifically grown for bonsai with lots of care and training along the way preserving branches and not allowing anything to get out of proportion. Lets look at some pines being grown for bonsai but with much less work done to them for the future as bonsai. These are good trees, but many of them should have been culled along the way. Many of them are taking up space and water and fertilizer is being wasted on material that does not have a bright future in the bonsai trade.
Lets look at this growers material as a whole.
Now we can zoom in and take a look at individual trees.
This pine has a good trunk movement. It has a nice curve and the curve is low and in scale with a tree 8 inches tall. This is a keeper.
This tree has a good nebari and lots of branches down low to work with. A strong pine when cut will bud profusely if it is healthy.
This is another good candidate with a nice wiggle in the trunk to help add some dynamics. Lots of branch choices and low branches keep the tree in scale and proportion.
Even though I did not get a good pic of the trunk, the tree has lots of branches and many are low enough to start a good shohin tree. Possibly a good formal upright tree here.
At first glance this tree may be looked over with the wye in the trunk and straight section off to the right. I would purchase this tree and cut off the trunk on the right maybe leaving a small jin stub. I would continue working the left side due to its compact growth and good trunk movement as well as a profusion of branches to work with.
Some trees that would be something to look past would be trees with little movement and few branches. This straight beanpole has nothing going for it.
This small pine while having lots of branches, there is little to work with as far as a trunk. It is straight and uninteresting, branching starts too high and the trunk has little taper. Pass one like this by. I have seen people buy trees like this when there is little material to choose from. Switch to a species with better choices in your locale and be happy a few years from now. Buying material like this is “not” a leaning experience and that line is a cop out for poor choices at the check stand.
Here is another poor choice. Again the enticement may be the larger trunk size. It seems larger than the others. That’s true but it come with little else. That first section of trunk is out of scale without taper for an 8 inch tree, and finding a tree in this material may take decades.
There is no taper and the wye in the trunk with a leader out the middle looks funny and cannot be corrected. Removing the central leader will leaves you with a slingshot and will probably not bud back very easily on the old wood.
This trident maple was purchased from Ian Price of Lone Pine Gardens in 2010 for $400.00. I had not spent this much money for a trident before and frankly had bought much better for much less. This tree seemed to have something I found very interesting in the trunk line which I thought I could highlight and improve so I bought it. The trunk is about 3 inches across at the base and it has lots of flare under the soil to improve and expose in the future. At this point the tree is only about 15 inches tall.
After reaching home from the convention I set out to achieve my future plan. Some preliminary chops were set out and options for the line were studied.
In January of 2011 I noticed while uncovering the base of the tree that part of the roots were missing on one side of the trunk. The bark was removed and hormone applied and covered with cut paste.
Chops were made and now I was committed to the plan. The chops were sealed and left to bud.
This poor Charlie Brown tree ( as my wife calls them ) is taken back to bare bones. It was pretty tough to cut off all that ramification which was probably 10 or more years old.
Approach grafts were added after the grow out year. I wasn’t satisfied with how the tree was budding and decided that grafting would speed things up by a few years.
By the winter of the following year a good branch structure was developing. A long growing season and lots of fertilizer and water helps things grow faster. Pruning along the way is a must and keeping up is a weekly chore.
The tree in leaf is looking nice now. The tree is developing some character and the wounds are healing and better bark is developing. The trunk is now a full 1/4 inch larger across than when I started and that is pretty good in a sawed down 5 gallon nursery can.
The wound I made for some ground layer roots just bridged over and no roots. The scar can be seen albeit faintly.
The Fall of 2013 is showing a much improved canopy of branches and ramification. Still need lots of work on the apex area.
The Spring view is shaping up. The tree has now gone thru two seasons of hedging for shape.
March of 2015 and the structure of the tree is really well defined now. Cleaning and detailing scars is ongoing and a slow process in a small pot with continual pruning.
By June of 2015 the tree is really nice now and the canopy is well defined and tight.
The 2016 season of repotting will put the tree into its first bonsai pot. It has been 6 years of growing and refining to get to this point. This inexpensive white training pot will suffice until 2018 when it will go into its final show pot. Some of the flare can now be seen and there is more to come. The nebari is better lower and that too will show better later. The scar from the layer attempt is on the very lower right edge of the tree and the bark shows much more red. It is completely healed over and is of no cause for concern.
I selected this tree for an entry into the newly formed reemergence of the local Kazari Competition from the now gone Clark Center for Japanese Art.
This accent composition would accompany the entry.
This Japanese scroll would also accompany the display.
Some pictures from the Kazari. This tree has already experienced a lot in its short life under my hand. It will be interesting to see what 6 more years might bring.
This trident maple started life as a bare root tree in a shopping bag at a Fresno Bonsai Society swap meet. The Grower is Ed Clark.Very tough to see any trunk line in this bagged tree, but I saw a decent line and thought I could improve it.
The tree was pruned back very hard and planted in a cut down pond basket. Some wire was used to preserve what branches I did keep.
The tree went on to be used for a demo in what I called livin in “realville”. The shorter story can be read elsewhere on this blog. The contention was that sooner or later every person working with bonsai has to make decisions on which pieces of material to keep and which to find a suitable home for. Hopefully make a few bucks to cover your trouble. The premise was which of the two was the better one to waste ones time on. I kept the one on the right and sold off the other.
I decided to make a virtual of the future of the tree. This was all going on with the 2010 purchase and repotting in 2011.
During that repotting combing of the roots and checking out the deep undercut that was in the lower trunk.
It grew well, but the hot summers of the Central valley drought took its toll on the leaves and strength of the tree.
Here is a good shot of the undercut portion of the trunk. For the tree to look like anything this would have to be addressed and soon!
During the growing phase I kept it pruned back hard on the top and tried to keep the growth in the lower portion of the tree. Very hard to do on a trident.
During the winter of 2012 I decided it was time to address the undercutting.
I used some cutting that had rooted from the previous year, and wood thread graft them thru the trunk.
I also approach grafted four branches on the upper trunk.
All the grafts took. There is one in the center of the trunk which looks like a curving branch.
The tree grew well and the treatment was the same, cutting back the top to allow the bottom to grow and strengthen.
The lower right branch is one of the grafts.
Two years ago I decided the tree was too tall for shohin. Using the stick I made for size limits, we can see the tree is about 1.5 inches too tall.
All along the process this has been my front view of the tree. It received some massive squirrel damage in 2012 and I did not like the look of the trunk after the damage.
A close up view of my stick.
A layer was the only option left to fix the trunk. This would not only get the tree down to the correct size, but would also improve the undercut side of the trunk which had failed with the thread grafts.
The black line was drawn on the trunk and the incisions were made. At the top of the cut I added a large piece of wire around the cut to insure the roots growing outward from the trunk.
After a few weeks, sprouts were coming from the trunk. The wire can just be seen in the photo.
After about 75 days the entire root process stopped. I uncovered the trunk and found that the tissue had bridged and was growing just fine stopping the rootage from growing. I took a sharp knife and cut away all the live wood and allowed it to sit for a couple days open to the air. Then re-buried it.
I allowed free reign now since the roots were growing well. It grew all summer of 2015.
Pruning continued during the appropriate times to not lose the size of branches within the canopy.
Winter of 2016 and time to cut it off the stump and pot it into a new bonsai pot.
I layered in winter of 2014 and allowed it to grow all of 2015. In spring of 2016 this is the root ball I had growing in the colander for one year.
The tree had been growing on an inverted terra cotta water dish to keep the root pad shallow.
Here is what I kept after pruning back the root pad and spreading it out. Good radial root spread with roots all the way around.
Potted in a light blue Yamaki lotus shaped Shohin pot.
Tonight the first pruning was done. All the branches were cut back to a pair.